Sunday, April 27, 2008

Surprisingly Sophisticated...


I had a strong suspicion that this would still be simply elegant as an adult dessert

This month, the Daring Bakers were challenged
with a recipe called Chocolate Covered Cheesecake Pops, using lollipop sticks. The principle is that the cheesecake be presented like a lollipop, to eat with child-like nostalgia from the end of the stick. Combined with the great cheesecake I remember from home, the whole concept packs a double whammy of memories and kiddie fun. I loved the idea.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to find any lollipop sticks anywhere in the city of Lyon, but I still wanted to try this recipe and join the challenge. I had a strong suspicion that without the actual sticks, this recipe would still be simply elegant as an adult dessert, to be drizzled with chocolate caramel syrup and eaten with a dessert fork. Well, the verdict is in, my friends. This recipe is excellent. The cheesecake has a rich soft sophisticated New York personality, wrapped in a dark chocolate covering that is like the perfect little black dress.

Even without the chocolate finish, this recipe is a great one for cheesecake. I've noted it carefully in my notebook. I used my regular white cheese coming from the farm that I pick up at the market on Sunday mornings. It worked perfectly. It's a keeper, and I imagine I will be preparing these chocolate covered cheesecake bites again and again through the years. I'd love to get my hands on some lollipop sticks one of these days and have a blast with the sprinkles and ribbons. Maybe after we have some kids to join in the fun! For the moment, we're cherishing the quiet dinners (this time with Anne and Greg), with the window open looking out over the square, and appreciating the sophistication that these chocolate covered New York style cheesecake bites deliver.

Thank you Daring Bakers! And to Elle & Deborah who hosted this challenge (you can get the recipe by visiting Deborah's blog).

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Sunday, March 30, 2008

Dorie's Perfect Party Cake



My track record with party cakes has never been the greatest, but hey, I'm always ready to give another one a try. This month for the daring bakers we were challenged to a cake. Easter dinner with family was the perfect occasion. The recipe from Dorie Greenspan's Baking From My Home to Yours.

What I loved about this cake is that following Dorie's basic recipe, using her suggestions with the lemon in the cake, the fruit preserves, and the butter cream, there's a lovely flavor balance. It felt like there was a gauzy light fairy bridge of flavor suspended between each element, tied all together with a nice little bow. I particularly loved the effect of applying coconut to the outside, which gave it a festive and feminine look, a touch of grace after my not so great job of spreading the buttercream.

I have to admit I was feeling rather sorry for myself until the coconut came in. I had trouble getting the cake to rise so I did bake this cake several times and ended up using three flat layers instead of two layers cut in half. The butter cream was quite easy coming together and tasted great. I have never put fruit preserves in cake before, and it was something I will do again. When you are in a rush to finish this cake with guests coming, having a vacuum cleaner within arm's reach at the application of coconut stage is very helpful.

The book itself is a work of art, and having made the trip to the book shop in London when I was there was something I am really thankful I did. It is a gorgeous enormous cookbook containing only baked desserts. 500+ of my fellow daring bakers all did excellent jobs with their cakes - and I salute you!

Thank you, fellow daring bakers, for your kind support in helping me stretch my wings and step outside of my comfort zone. And thank you Dorie, for creating such a beautiful book. I add it lovingly to my small collection of English language baking books.

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Friday, February 29, 2008

Leap of Faith: French Bread


You too can make this at home

There is a first challenge that one executes to the best of their ability and in doing so, improves. I have always preferred to those kinds of recipes that we can take elements from, transform, be inspired by, interpret and leap from, freely. I have put effort into research for recipes from the regions and always respect a classic recipe when its the first time I follow it, but I've also come to a certain pleasure in not using a recipe at all, or just being inspired by one.



Baking involves following the rules, all the time. Every time I've been tempted to stray while baking, I ended up with a big mess on my hands. For a time, I convinced myself that baking was fussy. But I think that was a defense mechanism. To give me an excuse for the failed birthday cakes. I have got to get over it. In embarking on these challenges with the Daring Bakers, I face the truth and seek to master a certain fear.



Everyone must face the fear of failure, and push through it in order to grow. In many ways, life happiness depends on our ability to push through it. Pastry is a vocation that actually serves the perfectionist well. If you learn the specific properties of the materials you are working with, how they react to heat and cold, and if you respect them, you can do great things with pastry. If you embrace the rules of the game and spend the time to follow recipes, you still end up victorious. If you can't, you go to the corner bakery or the grocery store and purchase your pastry.



Loic proposed marriage to me on July 3, 1999. I responded yes, with a condition. That he go to America and live as a foreigner for one year before we made the move to France. There had been some talk, I had an inkling that it might not be easy. I had lived in foreign countries before. The difference this time was that I had never moved to a foreign country to live there for the rest of my life. Expats and immigrants have different experiences. I had this idea that any culture shock I endured in France might resonate more deeply this time. I wanted him to understand. So we worked it out, and he chose the city in America, as agreed, where he could experience life together with him as a foreigner, just in case he needed to understand what it was like, you know. He got a post in a research team at UCLA and we made the move.



The first thing I realized once we got him to the States was that it wasn't going to be easy for him. Being in Los Angeles was particularly hard. Some people spend a great deal of time trying to recreate what they left behind. A kind of obsession began to develop on what he was missing and we used that as a springboard for exploring various nooks and crannies in the sprawl of the City of Angels. Pretty much all of our time outside of work was spent trying to fulfill a need for food in the French spirit of things, which was o.k. by me. We got to know the French bakery on Westwood Boulevard. There was a lot of footwork and scheduling involved in getting fresh bread. The more we sought some kind of regular existence, the more Loic realized that our constant long periods trapped in traffic across the expanse of Los Angeles in the course of food seeking missions could not be sustained. (The French feel claustrophobic in cars, not good in L.A.)



He came home to our studio with loft across from the UCLA campus, the one with the dingy whisper of spillover frat parties past and a strong undertone of carpet cleaner that never went away, with a book, in French. It was one that explained the science of bread. The thing he missed the most was the bread. He simply could not make do with what we had available then. At the time, I had spent some time studying in Paris, but not long enough to develop a corporal need for fresh daily bread. Since the air, the water, schedules and budgets could not provide, he began to make his own bread at home.




He kept a large lab book within which he silently noted all of his experiments. He raised levain in a white jar we got at the dollar store, that he kept on top of the refrigerator, carefully tended to and observed. He spent time executing different loaf making techniques. He rolled out of bed before dawn every day to form the loaves and we had hot bread with coffee before I donned my pantyhose, put on my suits and hit the traffic on the 405 in my dinged up 1990 silver Toyota Corolla to bring home some bacon.





Honestly, I had no involvement in the bread making at all back then. None. I wasn't even interested in it. You had to get up too early. He was the man and he made the bread with a book in French. I just ate it in the mornings and loved him. He never even talked about it. We eventually came to France and embraced the boulangerie tradition, by choosing our bakery and proclaiming our fidelity to the one we loved the best. I didn't love Loic any less when he stopped making bread, of course.



In a flash in my mind's eye, I have something that seems like a memory but I know hasn't happened yet. Simple living in a small town somewhere in New York. Maybe in a college town, with lots of books, dark wood, deep snow outside. And French bread baking. It's just an illusion. Just a composition of memories and hopeful emotions tinged with the remorse that comes with missing family. We do have vacations there from time to time. We may be in the need for French bread here and again. This task is quite important to learn, then.


The Daring Baker's Challenge recipe this month was to follow exactly from Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume II, pages 57-74, her recipe for French Bread. You can do this at home. Don't be afraid. It is really quite liberating. This challenge was hosted by Sara at i like to cook and breadchick at The Sourdough. To see the results from my fellow Daring Bakers, click here.

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