Sunday, November 05, 2006

Sunday's Caille Laqué au Beurre Blanc de Noir, Wild Chickory & Radis Noir Slaw

When the moment came to take out the quails to stuff them, I changed my mind. Stuffing a quail is kind of like playing with your food. Why stuff a little itty bitty bird like this? At most I would get two tablespoons of stuffing into them, and what good would that serve? Better spit roasted and served on a bed of oyster, grey chanterelle, celery root and eggplant dressing, wouldn't you agree?

I decided to use a recipe from my kitchen notebook that I have done on many occasions with excellent results, my spit roasted

Caille Laqué au Beurre Blanc de Noir

Beurre blanc is a sauce made with shallots, butter, and vinegar. When I lived in China, I discovered the magic of a certain fermented black vinegar, called Chinkiang Vinegar, which has a distinctive flavor that when used judiciously, can have a delicious succulent effect in many dishes, and as I have discovered, not just Chinese food. It is a vinegar that is so special and unique that you really have to be careful when you're using it to make sure that it does not assert itself too much.

When roasting delicately flavored birds such as quail, a little goes a long way. The vinegar is made from fermented rice and yeast, and the ingredients on your bottle should reflect nothing else. The fermentation process in this vinegar is what makes it have its special flavor and no amount of sweeteners or salt can recreate it. There are a lot of fakes out there, read your ingredient labels. If you have a choice between one that has salt added and one that doesn't, choose the one without salt.

The goal is to enhance the flavor of the birds and bring out the flavor of the meat with a tangy foil of flavor at the skin, tempered and calmed and lifted by the butter in this classic sauce with a twist. When carefully and repeatedly basted, this sauce can produce a beautiful mysteriously tangy seasoned browned skin that heightens the flavor of the meat. A succesful execution of this recipe means that when you eat this quail, you say: Mmm quail.

For a couple of quails (multiply as necessary), you need:

2 T. Chinkiang Vinegar
6 T. good quality butter
1/2 a shallot
salt and pepper

Puree the shallot and the vinegar and cook it down to about half. Off heat, whisk in the butter in little bits, to create an emulsion. Prepare your quail to roast on the spit, making sure you don't bump them up too close to each other, so that your sauce and the heat can have a chance to reach every part of the bird. Paint the birds with the beurre blanc de noir emulsion, season them with salt and pepper, and set them to roast. Baste them every 3 minutes, 8 times.

What I do is set the timer and execute other tasks in the kitchen in the time between basting. Every time the timer beeps, I quickly drop what I'm doing and give the birds a quick and thorough baste. Careful opening that oven!

I washed, dried, and chopped the wild chickory, minced the onions and apples, sliced the radis noir, and made a salty shallot vinaigrette for the slaw.

I opened the oysters, diced them and added them to yesterday's precooked eggplant, grey chanterelle, champignon de Paris and celery root, and set that in the oven to brown on top while the quails roasted.

When the birds were done, I put them on a warmed serving plate with the dressing all around. I'd say all of the meal from start to finish was on the table within a half an hour (barring the dressing, which was prepared yesterday except for the oysters, which I added at the last minute).

The wild chickory slaw with radis noir was balanced with apple and onion and a salty vinaigrette

I would have been happier with a Condrieu to go with this dish, or even one of the more assertive white Burgundies we see around a lot these days, but we had this leftover Reisling, and it was alright with the quail.

Note: Loic went gaga over the slaw. It's a keeper. I suppose I should think of a better name for it. He was also delighted with the whole idea of oysters in the side to the quail. I think I'll add nuts to the slaw and serve it again soon, perhaps with something like a bacon roasted monk fish.

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Anonymous Anonymous said...

Just reading it is enough to make me say "mmmm, quail"

11:35 AM, November 06, 2006  
Anonymous connie said...

the slaw looks beautiful. I think I'd go gaga over it too! Have a great week!

1:55 PM, November 06, 2006  
Blogger christine said...

I love the cook's perogative to change her/his mind at the last minute. Your quail, unstuffed, sound and look fabulous. The whole meal looks wonderful. I've got to find some of those black radishes.

5:25 AM, November 08, 2006  
Blogger ooishigal said...

ho my,
the first pictures is so gorgeous!

1:30 PM, November 08, 2006  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Lucy, Lucy...the energy you put into your blog is exceptional. The writing, the photos, and of course, the recipes themselves are a very welcome diversion. My only difficulty is that I become tremendously jealous of your resources! I live in rural Illinois and I can only buy quail, not to mention just about anything else, through the mail! Thank you for your immense generosity.

3:05 PM, November 08, 2006  
Anonymous Elie Nassar said...

Chinkiang Vinegar in beurre blanc. BRILLIANT!

11:38 PM, November 08, 2006  
Blogger franchini said...

Lucy, what did you use to slice the radis so finely? They look so beautiful.

10:12 PM, November 09, 2006  
Blogger L Vanel said...

I very sloppily used a mandoline...

7:51 PM, November 10, 2006  
Blogger Mahek said...

you take such great photos its a real visual journey with you.

7:33 PM, November 12, 2006  

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