Last winter, I took the train down south. They do sausage very well down there. Just before I left, Kate put a little cassole in my hands. It is an itty bitty version of the heirloom vessel she writes about on her blog today. Today I noticed that she has begun, with the knowledge she has gathered over the years, to address the singular elements of the cassoulet, one by one. She begins with the cassole. I respond by bringing the one she gave me out from the cupboard, preparing to follow her lead.